Soave in 3D: the innovative tasting

Soave tasting in 3D

In the three-day "Soave in 3D" event, that took place in Soave a few days ago, an innovative sheet for the evaluation of the bottles of Soave produced in this volcanic region was presented. The event is intended for journalists of the sector, selected operators of wine and some members of the Vini Soave Consortium, which protects and promotes this noble white wine, among visits to the wineries, lunches, dinners-conferences and side events.

A sort of identity card for each wine presented to the tasters, more or less expert, but without reporting name and surname of the producer, but only the year, as it should be when you taste blindly. Objective judgment as wide as possible, then, but with a necessary condition: that the tasted wine corresponds and reflects, from five to eleven, the character of the area.
A zonal imprinting necessarily common to every type of Soave that deserves to be called so. A seal provided and required with a specification that has become the essential road of Soave Wines Consortium and of the winegrowers of Monteforte, San Martino Buon Albergo, Lavagno, Mezzane, Caldiero, Colognola, Illasi, Cazzano Di Tramaglia, San Bonifacio, Roncà, Montecchia and San Giovanni Ilarione. These are the thirteen municipalities included in the "Soave place names" that extends in the eastern part of the hills in the province of Verona, in which is located the territory that results immediately recongnizable in every sip of Soave DOC, DOCG anc classic, that here is produced.

As precisely subtended by the first three estimates printed in the evaluation sheet, designed and formatted by members of the Consortium, to be proposed together with a tasting of 78 different labels of Soave, uncorked for the marathon in 3D. The first issue, therefore, is giving answer to the question on the perception of the territorial identity of wine. Answer: simple for people who, experienced or not, have already had the pleasure of drinking at least three or four times a good Soave, and have already forfeited in their memory its organoleptic characteristics. Less simple, for example, to a potential wine enthusiast who arrives, ex novo, in the volcanic earth of Soave. Wine, for heaven's sake, is immediately recognizable with its strong racial identity but hard to distinguish among the varieties suggested by the winemaking techniques that each producer chooses. Especially in relation to its compliance with the territory of Soave, very composite and with altitudes ranging from the plains to the hills, its vineyards, the palates of those who bottles it and of anyone who drinks it. Themes, indeed, contained in the second block of answers placed in the sheet but not easy to solve. Especially thinking again about the neophytes above. Who, to be honest, would find it easy to deal with the two issues raised in the third block of the assessments required by the 3D sheet: the definition of the degree of pleasure and satisfaction for the Soave wine. It is an experience that is possible and practicable even without having ever drunk it before and without being, more or less, expert. Here, this is the part of the evaluation of Soave in 3D that was loved the most. Thus leaving to more technical tasters the convoluted issues about geological terrains that sometimes betray the presence of hydrocarbons. It is considered by many people a primary olfactory characteristic, and by somewhere else, incompetence in making wine.

Because, whatever they say, it must be true that a wine is made before in the vineyard, but after it is made also in the winery. And the winemaker / farmer, has to know that, aromatic or aliphatic, hydrocarbons are not among the favorites bearers of pleasant scents. Better to focus on how to preserve delicacy and simplicity in expressing scents of wild flowers, with notes of citrus, rhododendron, ferns and rose. Harmonious, gentle and pure even when tasted, when, along mineral notes, there is a decided aromatic note with subtle hints of jasmine and cherry. Last but not least, a pleasantly bitter aroma reminiscent of almonds. This is a heritage of Garganega grape that, in the high quality Soave, is used at 100%. With extraordinary results even if the Garganega grape is easy but not to the point of being subjected to any type of transformation. It is a generous grape with a thick skin, therefore winemakers must wait for its complete maturation, without forcing it to the will of the market. A discordant note which fortunately seems to be outdated and certainly does not sit well with the state of health of this blend and of Soave wine that, on the slopes of Verona, is put in the bottle. For the pleasure of the senses.


m.st