Wine Idea's wine news for December 26, 2024!

1) The Irreducible Allure of Oxidative Wines. The Diaries of a Master of Wine

• Context Fortified and oxidative wines maintain a niche among enthusiasts, despite the decrease in volumes on the market. In London, the "Big Fortified Tasting" (born a few years ago) has shown their historical solidity: Porto, Madeira, Jerez, but also some rarities.
• Example: Moscatel de Setubal A unique Portuguese production, with the Roxo version, born thanks to the Moscatel Roxo grape variety, almost disappeared 20 years ago. This wine recalls a meeting between the characteristics of Porto and Madeira, offering deep aromatic profiles and complex oxidations.

2) Heraco, the new Grosjean wine: a story of family and mountains

• The genesis of the name Heraco comes from the fusion of the names Hervé, Eraldo, Didier (Er) and Marco (Co) – the four pillars of the Grosjean family, among the most famous winemakers of the Aosta Valley.
• The historic vineyards It comes from two emblematic crus of the company: Tzeriat (grandfather Dauphin's vineyard from the 1960s) and Rovettaz (the largest vineyard managed by a single Aosta Valley vigneron).
• Blend From Tzeriat we obtain Pinot Noir (elegance and finesse), while from Rovettaz we obtain Fumin (structure), Torrette Superieur (harmony) and Clairetz (more lively tannins), giving shape to an unprecedented red.

3) Wine: if the evaluations of enthusiasts and professional critics do not differ too much

• Vivino Study An analysis compared consumer ratings on Vivino (65 million users) with critics' ratings. The results show a substantial parallel, especially for the great Bordeaux reds (vintages from 2004 to 2016).
• Implications The data disproves the common idea that there is a huge gap between popular taste and professional judgment. Even occasional consumers recognize the goodness of top wines, assigning similar scores.

4) Elvio Cogno, praise of imperfection

• Philosophy The Elvio Cogno company in Novello (in Barolo), led by Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore, celebrates biodiversity and rejects standardization. Each individual vineyard in the Ravera denomination (Lampia, Michet, Nebbiolo Rosé) gives life to different interpretations of Barolo.
• Focus on the Ravera, Bricco Pernice and Vigna Elena crus demonstrate how Nebbiolo biotypes can generate wines with unique nuances, a “praise of imperfection” that guarantees authenticity and expressive variety.

5) In Italy it will be possible to produce alcohol-free wine

• New regulation The Ministry of Agriculture has given the green light, after a discussion with trade associations, to the production of dealcoholized or low-alcohol wines, applying the 2021 EU regulation.
• What's changing Until now, a product under 8.5 degrees could not be legally defined as "wine". From today, however, it can. Dop and Igp are excluded, to protect the denominations. The "zero and low alcohol" market is growing, especially among young people.

6) Scandinavia now also produces its own wine

• New phenomenon With climate change, Denmark, Sweden and Norway are experiencing a slight rise in temperatures, enough to start growing some cold-resistant grape varieties.
• Prospects Although with initially limited volumes, a small local sector of artisanal wines could consolidate, enriching the European offer with new emerging production areas.

7) Dealcoholized wine, Lollobrigida gives the green light to the wine that “rips” the new Highway Code

• Curiosity With the increase in penalties for drunk driving, interesting scenarios are opening up for no/low alcohol wines. The decree signed by the minister allows production, albeit with precise limits and rules to avoid fraud and misunderstandings.
• Contrasting positions If for some it represents a market opportunity, others raise doubts: there is a fear of trivializing a “noble” product like wine.

8) Wine: Chinese demand decline weighs on fine wines, Champagne and Burgundy prices down

• Markets in pain According to an analysis by the “Financial Times” and the Liv-ex exchange, 2024 was the worst year for collectible wines. Burgundy fell by 14.4%, vintage Champagne by 9.8%, Bordeaux by 11.3%.
• Reason The slowdown in imports from China and the increase in interest rates have made “no-yield” assets such as wine less attractive. Big names (Carruades de Lafite, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Roederer) have seen their prices fall significantly.

9) What does a glass of wine a day do?

• Benefits and Risks Some research identifies moderate positive effects on cardiovascular health, especially if it is red wine rich in polyphenols. At the same time, excess alcohol is harmful.
• Conclusions The “glass a day” must be contextualized, it depends on age, sex, lifestyle. It is important to consult a specialist if you have doubts or particular physical conditions.

10) Our Flavours (wine) – Cantomoro IGT

• AIS Column The Arezzo delegation of AIS Toscana proposed the tasting of Cantomoro Toscana Rosso IGT 2009 (Az. Agr. Tunia, Badia al Pino – AR). A wine that combines ripe fruit and spicy notes, expressing the vocation of the Arezzo territory.

11) Cantine Bertani: the art of wine and the charm of architecture

• Restyling Project The historic Valpolicella house, now part of Angelini Wines & Estates, has had 800 m2 of hospitality renovated by Westway Architects.
• Purpose To enhance the Bertani tradition with a museum and sensorial approach, hosting visits, tastings and events in a context of sustainable and refined design.

12) Wine&Siena, 2025 edition confirmed at Santa Maria della Scala

• Tenth Anniversary From 25 to 27 January 2025, the event dedicated to Italian wine excellence returns, created in collaboration with the Merano WineFestival.
• Objective Strengthen the bond between Siena, home of art and culture, and the world of quality wine, offering visitors a journey of tastings and meetings with prestigious producers.

13) Collectible wine producers in crisis as Chinese demand disappears

• Fine wines market The “gold rush” of premium wine slows down sharply. The absence of Chinese buyers, combined with global financial instability, has caused prices on Liv-ex to collapse.
• Examples Major Bordeaux and Burgundy labels are suffering, with drops of up to 40%. Some experts predict a slow stabilization, hoping for a revival of Asian exports.

14) Morellino del Cuore: six Italian sommeliers choose ten labels from Annata, Intermedio and Riserva

• The “Morellino del Cuore” initiative is part of an educational project on this Sangiovese grown in Maremma, presented with an event at the Iyo restaurant in Milan.
• The selection Ten different interpretations, chosen by six sommeliers, to tell the nuances of Morellino di Scansano Docg between youth, evolution and longevity.

15) Three hundred “double packages” for Veneto families in difficulty

• Solidarity La Cantina Il Colle di San Pietro di Feletto and the Italian Red Cross have prepared 300 “double packages” containing basic necessities to be distributed to families in difficulty.
• Purpose Each family will receive two boxes: one with basic food, the other with Christmas products. A nice gesture of closeness to those going through a complicated moment.

16) “Drinking a glass of wine a day reduces the risk of cardiovascular disease by 50%?”: the new study

• Spanish research The University of Barcelona and the Hospital Clinic Barcelona, in a study published in the European Heart Journal, suggest that moderate wine consumption (especially red) could be associated with a reduction in cardiovascular risk in people on a Mediterranean diet.
• Limits and recommendations This is not an invitation to drink indiscriminately. Further scientific confirmation is needed and the balance with a healthy diet and a correct lifestyle should always be considered.

17) How and why do bubbles form in champagne? A fascinating story

• Scientific insight Sparkling wine is the result of specific chemical-physical processes: the second fermentation in the bottle with yeasts and sugars which releases carbon dioxide, trapped in the wine.
• Decisive factors
  • Temperature and pressure.
  • Grape variety and sugar content.
  • Method (Charmat or Classic). A wealth of knowledge accumulated over the centuries that gives Champagne (and sparkling wines in general) their unparalleled “effervescence”.

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